Seeing our partner and editor WatchesOnMe write a review of his recently acquired A. Lange & Sohne gave me an idea to write about a piece that I just bought myself a couple of weeks ago – DeBethune DB27 ‘Titan Hawk’. In many articles before I always praised and shared with you my love for independent watchmaking; especially underlining brands like DeBethune, MB&F or Urwerk. That is because I find them both pioneers as well as forward thinkers of horology.
Now, I can’t call myself a big watch collector with only a handful of pieces, but each purchase that I make does not exactly involve rational thinking and review of history, market value in 100 years, results of past auctions or anything like that. Each purchase comes from my heart, and much like choosing a car I would look at the design, mechanics and, of course, price :) This year, at Baselworld 2014 (one year since my last purchase) I spent almost all my time at the Palace with the ‘independents’ and could check out pretty much every brand and collection there was. As a result I ended up falling in love with the DeBethune DB27 :)
Soon after the fair I visited the official boutique in Geneva and made an order for the piece. A couple of days later it has arrived just in time for my trip to Asia, where I took many wristshots and pretty much couldn’t take it off my wrist.
By now you can definitely understand that my opinion on the watch is extremely positive, and you would probably want to hear the reasons behind it… So let’s get to the review!
DeBethune DB27 ‘Titan Hawk’ is actually the entry level priced model for the brand’s current collection, at 39’000 CHF. Its casing is made of Grade 5 mirror-polished Titanium and what’s really cool about it is the resemblance with the DB28 models. They have the exact same futuristic looking lugs, which bend to adjust to the wearer’s wrist size, making the round inner casing look like a pocket watch. Another pocket watch ‘element’ is the crown positioned at 12 o’clocked, which is perfect for both left and right handed people but causes you to take it off the wrist to adjust time.
However that is not really a problem, because the self winding caliber S233 has an incredible power reserve of 6 days (!) and for me it’s a huge advantage as I tend to change watches all the time and whenever I pick up my DB27 there is no need to adjust time. And apart from time it also powers up the date indication you see on the inner centred dial. The clean look here makes it incredible easy to read time, and even though I usually prefer watches with open movements I think it’s a smart choice to only show the balance wheel on the closed back of the case.
Another thing I admire about the DeBethune DB27 (among many other current models) is the strap. Extremely supple, thin and at the same time strong leather feels just perfect on the wrist. And I’ve heard many people say the same. Finally, last but not least is the dial I chose out of 4 different variations. In the beginning I was leaning towards the classier white dial version, but then my attention was brought to the ‘Salmon Dial’ made of rose gold. Thanks to my fellow DeBethune fans Mo Coppoletta and Suzan Wong I am sure I made the right choice with this colour, and I’m loving every second of wearing it!
Hope you’ve enjoyed the article and I did not annoy you with my excitement, but I could not resist from sharing my positive and genuine emotions on this one:)
Photography by Adam Priscak and Aleksandr Markovsky for WatchAnish.com